Summary Sit or printed, I wrote a lot.
From Sumba to Timor I sipped the crossing by boat more 'long journey in Indonesia: 32 hours, as I call Flores to first reach Kupang, the main port on the island of Timor. The boat, as usual, and 'a kind of a little rusty tramp steamers (squeaking causing anxiety), however, with some pregievole comfort zone as a with air conditioning for a few pennies where you can 'rent a mattress, to be spread on the ground on which to spend the night and satellite TV, good to see a film in English (the patriotic "Beyond Enemy Lines" - the story of a pilot American shot down in Serbia during the NATO bombing, alone against all, but we will do ') or a MotoGP race (also in Indonesia, Rossi-mania).
Kupang and 'last city' of a certain size (300 thousand inhabitants) and I visit in Indonesia and 'a little' the sum of these daring in 60 days' archipelago. Busy, noisy, sometimes dirty and chaotic, but basically very friendly.
The bemo of Kupang
What '? The bemo and 'a shared taxi which can be found in all cities' of' Indonesia. In the form of a van, hosts usually 8 people but there 's a real limit to capacity. It runs on fixed routes that are identified by the colors of bemo or numbers. Stop at the request of passengers. In addition to the driver (a little more 'that age in most cases) uses a "crier" who, clinging to the sliding door, outside the car, drew the attention of passers-by shouting the destinations and stops the vehicle from the hand on the roof. The bemo and 'private and there' then a fierce competition for every passenger, even on the same route.
In Kupang Bemo I saw the most 'beautiful and fracassone in Indonesia. There is a real phenomenon of tuning, for the most 'cool city'. The music is 'an essential element and is fired without mercy'. Parallel under the seats in the back of the van (where you sit to the side and you are traveling opposite one another) are housed huge speakers and woofer, and when the music and 'high, your ass vibrates and ear aches. The interior '"cushion" and predominant colors like pink and green water (perhaps as a favor to the girls). However, also circulate more bemo ' fucksters, the stuff of boys, blacks and internal music strictly rock (Guns & Roses and Metallica). The interior, in addition to the padding, and 'upholstered with posters of pop stars (Britney and Avril pull) and players (Cristiano Ronaldo).
on the body, the outside is often the name of bemo: catarinfragente a huge sticker that has the title "Love Britney", "Man U", "Riccardo Kaka '," "Blue." Guys, amazing stuff. Made to me inexplicable. In Timor, the Catholic presence and 'strong and sometimes you see a sticker around Jesus' with a crown of thorns or Madonna. Then there are the long
antennoni, which do not nothing, 'cause there's no' the CB. The hull and 'shiny, perfect, with metallic paint. Chrome detailing. Alloy wheels. Lowered suspension.
at night and 'a light show, the interiors are tinged with pink or blue with neon lights and the same is happening under the vehicle: a blow to the accelerator is colored asphalt. Each
bemo and 'custom, beautiful, and I have the impression that there is a certain loyalty' in the score, like, "I only travel with the taxi to my friend" or "on what makes the music that I like ".
You pay the race shortly before their arrival and descend ... on the fly!
Other means of transportation in Indonesia
From City 'a city' ...
bus with air conditioning: the allocation of seats, comfortable, traveling day and night and only stop in the bus stations
bus without air conditioning for short-haul trips, there 'a capacity limit, they stop on request and all the time, speed 'average around 25km times, even the animals are allowed. Constant presence on board of street vendors and local singer-songwriters with a guitar. Frequent mechanical failures. Advisable to have endless patience.
Train: this only on the islands of Java and Sumatra, is a refreshing alternative al pullman.
Aerei: statisticamente non i piu’ sicuri al mondo; tuttavia veloci.
Nave: generalmente un vecchio scafo arrugginito, piu’ o meno affollato a seconda delle tratte. Anche le piu’ elementari norme di sicurezza vengono trascurate (si fuma ovunque). Dotati comunque di TV via satellite e VIP-spaces ad aria condizionata.
Charter: per i viaggiatori piu’ esigenti e danarosi; trattasi del noleggio di una macchina con autista. All’interno della citta’...
Taxi: rapido e confortevole, va tenuto d’occhio il tassametro e la furbizia del tassista
Minibus (bemo): sapete gia’ tutto
Becak: riscio’ a pedals. Slow but cheap. Excellent for sightseeing. Widespread.
Ojek: definitely the most means of transport 'is used. Mototaxi. Does not require a license virtually every scooter and 'a potential taxi. Economic, can ', however, be dangerous. There seems no limit to the distance traveled.
Cidomo: horse-drawn cart can accommodate up to 6 people. Ecological and nostalgic.
Benur: The name probably derives from the chariots used in the movie Ben Hur. Similar to cidomo but used only for freight. The driver stands on a platform, reins in hand.
Population friend
Indonesians are incredibly friendly e simpatici. Sono stato subissato dagli “Hello Mister” e dalle richieste di conversazione. Praticamente in ogni citta’ o paese visitato ho fatto nuovi amici e scambiato numeri di telefono; al 99% sono stati momenti gradevolissimi. Un solo episodio sfortunato: il ricchione che mi ha rinchiuso nel suo appartamento a Jakarta. Rispetto ad altre popolazioni socievoli (es. Indiani) ho notato che l’indonesiano ha un genuino interesse alla conversazione; una curiosita’ sincera che non nasconde truffe o proposte d’affari.
Calcio-mania
Come in molti paesi del sud-est asiatico anche l’Indonesia e’ colpita dalla calcio-mania. Qui si segue soprattutto la Serie A (as in China) without neglecting, however, Premier League, English La Liga or the Bundesliga. The icons are football Kaka ', C. Ronaldo, Lampard, Del Piero, Totti, Maldini. Stickers and posters depopulated mainly on trucks, motorbikes and taxis. Top teams: AC Milan, Inter, Man U, Chelsea, Liverpool. In Kupang
I saw the final of the Champions League means a long night. The afternoon before the game I rented a scooter and at the time of delivery - can not remember how - I met a boy who immediately invited me to his house to watch the game. E 'come get me at midnight in the hotel and took me to the home of a friend. Here, along with 20 other guys, we followed the game. Special Mention house: a small house for 5 of 5 meters, wooden walls and tin roof where, in one room, there are hardly bed and kitchenette; under a small porch in front of the home, staying a TV screen huge giant and 4 speakers worthy of a nightclub. Stationed in the garden a motorized satellite dish. TV, speakers and probably more cost parable 'of the house. When I inquire about their presence (and 'a DJ? Organize parties?) Someone tells me that, just like the type to listen to loud music. The gang
tifava most of Man U (Pallosa game) and I, Bastia, sided with Chelsea. Total hysteria to goals. Chairs that part in the air, hugging, patting shoulders, close Alarm clock: a joy bordering on tears. At the end of the penalties started a carousel of scooters (6 in the morning, between dawn), I along with 2 other guys: in 3! Fascinating Indonesian
madness.
memorable moments, like a kid in the middle of a gang of mini football pitch in a country, chasing me shouting "hello mister, my name is Frankie" (wearing a t-shirt printed with the image of F. Lampard). Outstanding.
to the border and beyond
In Kupang know Edwin and Joel. The first and 'the operator of Lavalon Cafe', since time immemorial as a den di viaggiatori; fino all’ultimo cerchera’ di realizzare il mio sogno di traversata marina fino in Australia. Invano. Ma almeno ci ho provato. Joel invece e’ un attore australiano reduce da 3 anni di recitazione in una soap opera (Home and Away, equivalente australiana di Un posto al sole). Amareggiato e deluso dallo show biz australiano, che reputa palloso e antiquato, si prepara ad un viaggio via terra verso Londra e nuove speranze di carriera. Un tipo simpatico.
Prima di raggiungere Dili e Timor Est faccio una tappa intermedia a Kefa, nell’entroterra, e mi godo gli ultimi sprazzi di indonesianita’: gente calorosa, cibo piccante e sfide serali a calcio con i ragazzini (Playstation 3!).
Il giorno successivo, during the journey to the border the bus mast step (here we go again ...) and I have to wait for a passing minibus. Reached Atambua, the last town before the border with East Timor, I organize in order to cover the remaining 30km separating me from the "more 'young nation in the world" (independent since 2002). Travel by motorcycle taxi and everything runs smoothly. Thank goodness. I close with no scratches two wonderful months in the vast and populous Indonesian archipelago.
easily be higher than customs, synchronize the clock (+1) and hitch a ride on a truck, it's almost 4 pm and public transport stopped in transit at noon. For $ 5 U.S. I can travel with him and a lot of mattresses to Dili (130km) the capital of East Timor, where he arrived on a warm, dark night in late May.
Rene '
Blood Indonesian Sumba Another island, another ferry. After Flores 'time of Sumba, one of the most culturally' interest in the Indonesian archipelago. I am leaving behind volcanoes and rain forest to discover a landscape of gentle rolling hills covered with low shrubs and grass yellow and sharp. An arid land, hard, beaten by strong ocean winds, I might be in southern Spain or Italy, it was not for those high thatched roofs sprouting on the top of many hills. These are the traditional houses of Sumba, an island where ancient practices and rituals are still strongly rooted among the population. The guide who accompanied me for a day of exploring the villages (Boni) tells me that the entrenched position in the past facilitated the defense of the community 'from the attacks of tribes' rivals while high thatched roofs, almost conical, are still being constructed to accommodate the souls of the dead who, though dead, still live in the same houses.
The funeral rite and 'probably the most' striking a visit to a traditional village Sumbanese; during the funeral in fact, before a large crowd, composed of all the inhabitants of the community ', are killed more goods' important to belong to the dead; goods which are intended to follow in the life of 'Underworld: chickens, pigs, buffaloes and horses sometimes (a practice, this' last, that the Indonesian government is trying to discourage), slaughtered with machetes in the village center, on a sacrificial altar. During his visit to a community ', Boni tells me that in a few days there will be' where a funeral will probably be killed six buffalo. Bloody! Unfortunately the weather holds for me and I can not prolong my stay in very Sumba to attend this ceremony. In any case I do not know if I would have stood the vision of cows sacrificed by blows of the ax. Probably the thing I would open the doors to the vegetarian world.
As in Flores, Sumba also the people more 'important are buried in huge megalithic tombs, decorated with bas-reliefs, in the middle of villages. Some tombs are really great and the uprising of the stones are required hundreds of men and long days of effort.
Sumba and 'very little tourist island. Forget the mass of Bali. Here waves of capricious' spiaggioni Indian Ocean breaking on the deserted white sand and many inhabitants still wear traditional dress, beautifully embroidered, and men with a dagger tucked in his belt and a scarf tied at the head. In four days the foreigners I counted on the fingers of one hand. The visit to the villages and 'was fascinating, authentic experience, almost anthropological fatta da gesti semplici, ma carichi di significato. Vi spiego: Boni mi presenta all’anziano capo della comunita’ - una figura quasi regale - alle quale io offro pacchetti di sigarette e manciate di noce moscata (qui la masticano in continuazione; una roba amarissima e leggermente narcotica). Questi, seduto sotto il tetto spiovente della sua abitazione, ornata con teschi di mucche e maiali sacrificati, accetta di buon grado le offerte e acconsente quindi alla visita del villaggio. Insieme alla mia guida e accompagnato spesso da una allegra processione di bambini, ho cosi il permesso di fare foto e di entrare in alcune case. In una delle visite mi e’ capitato pure di partecipare ad un rito sciamanico, con lo stregone che, dopo aver preparato una mixture of nutmeg and fluid (saliva?), I smeared it all over his forehead saying mysterious phrases. Stuff chills down my spine.
Rene '
Getting around Flores The island of Flores' reached after 9 hours by ferry from Sumbawa. A crossing in a quiet, almost sleepy, hailed for a few seconds to a couple of dolphins. Labuanbajo (or Bajo), the port of arrival, and 'a pile of stinking village that has a certain charm. The bay overlooked by houses and steep slopes covered with vegetation down to the sea appear to have come from the pencil of Hugo Pratt, a scenario worthy of the adventures of Corto Maltese.
A few nautical miles from here there are the islands of Comfortable and Rinca, inhabited by fearsome dragons, lizards a couple of meters long known for being carnivorous and hungry. The islands are part of a national park and visit with a group of other passengers. The ranger who welcomes us to base camp Rinca us to walk for a couple of hours and helps us to find a dragon sleeping in the shade of a rock and the animal, he says, and 'digestion phase' cause in the last few days and 'pappa a deer. We learn that the dragons do not kill and eat their victims, but now the infecting bite with their saliva and this causes a fatal disease in the unfortunate beast that is guarded by dragons until death: an ambush that can 'take weeks. When there is' a particular food shortages, the dragons will also kill each other: cannibalism! After a few days
Bajo, at the 'western Flores, I move eastward, reaching the center of the island. I visit the villages of Ruteng Bajawa and, inland, where nights are surprisingly cool, around 10 degrees. The landscape around Bajawa and 'particularly attractive and lush rainforests, volcanoes, perfect cones, traditional villages where they still live in houses with thatched roofs. Hire a moto-taxi for a whole day in order to explore some local villages. The first visit that enjoys a spectacular location on a natural balcony at the beginning of a narrow valley: volcano to the right, the hills on the left and the blue sea on horizon. Not far into the forest, two creeks, one of ice water, the other boiling, combine to form a natural thermal bath, gorgeous. Let me first take this opportunity to "shower" hot weeks after.
In the afternoon I stop in the village of Wogo. E 'being the funeral (rite Catholic) of an elderly resident. Here I meet Ervin, a local girl, who speaks excellent English and explains some of the traditions of the local population (the Ngada), including that of burying people more 'important in the center of the village under umbrella-shaped structures or miniature house, they are "consulted" before making important decisions such as sowing, harvesting and marriages. An interesting and mysterious mix of Catholicism and animism. Brings me to see the megalithic stones as high as 3 meters from the origin and meaning obscure. After the funeral Ervin invites me in some houses (rectangular wooden structures, one floor, mezzanine, and the thatched roof) where the relatives of the deceased (practically the entire village) came together and are consuming a meal. Even offered me a plate; issue of rice with beans and stringy pieces of meat (maybe pork) and difficult to chew gum, I try to do my best and I eat rice at least I do not want to offend anyone! After Ervin introduced me to a ten people are taken to another house where I find myself again with a plate (identical) under the nose, ugh! Same ritual as before. On the threshold of the third house, however, 'take the girl by the arm and begs her to finish the round of introductions, I have the stomach is about to burst! I greet you and I close this very special cultural experience. Back to
Bajawa and that 'now evening and pitch dark. The only place open seems to be room on the ground floor of a house where a group of kids sitting on the floor, is playing the Playstation 2 on three different televisions (must be the game room of the country). Shove the nose and immediately invite me to a challenge in football, play some games with Italy, winning almost tutte; mi diverto un sacco a urlare in faccia ai ragazzini "Pippooooo!" o "Gila!" ad ogni gol. Piovono pacche sulle spalle e risate generali. Football mania.
Dopo Bajawa faccio tappa alle pendici del vulcano Kelimutu. L’attrazione del luogo e’ la presenza di 3 laghi colorati all’interno della caldera: uno marrone, uno quasi nero e un altro turchese. Spettacolare. Sembrano tempere sulla tavolozza di un pittore. La colorazione delle acque e’ dovuta alla presenza di minerali nella roccia. Secondo una tradizione locale i laghi sono abitati dagli spiriti dei morti. Dalla cima del vulcano riesco a scorgere l’azzurro del mare lungo le coste meridionali e settentrionali (l’isola e’ abbastanza stretta) e, sforzandomi, arrival almost see the tip of the island. The landscape is' a succession of volcanoes, many of which are active smoking and cones.
Flores' all ups and downs: winding roads, serpentine, narrow valleys, ravines and steep slopes. Soil and 'black and often covered with thick tropical vegetation. A beautiful volcanic island and capricious.
A local guide told me that they have evacuated an area just east of the island in what they are waiting for the "pop" of a volcano. Wow. Quiet, I'm going in the opposite direction. Term stay in Flores in the city 'of Ende, one of the' big island, where, on the waterfront, there ' a lively fish market, fresh. I just caught tonnarelli bloody and still end up fairly quickly, once cut, boats on the back of a pick-up. The pungent smell of fish is mixed continuously to the more 'fresh vegetables, sold a little more' in the. All the differences between then end of the black sand beach, a prey to the mouth of noisy seagulls or dribbled by legions of kids to run after a ball. Overwhelming reality 'of Indonesia. Rene '
